Auto Pro To Call Information Desk is a page
dedicated to giving our customers general information that evolves around tires
and other automotive issues that relate to them.
Click on any of the
keywords below for general information about that subject.
Tire Sidewalls reveal a lot of useful information molded into
the sidewall of a tire. It shows the name of the tire, its size, whether it is
tubeless or tube type, the tire grade, speed rating, maximum load, maximum
inflation, an important safety warning,etc.
Example:
P215/65R15 89H "P" means this is a
passenger car tire (as opposed to a tire made for a truck or other
vehicle).
P-metric is the U.S. version of a metric tire-sizing
system.
“LT” would signify a light truck
tire.
"215" is the section width - the width of the tire in
millimeters from sidewall to sidewall.
This measurement varies depending
on the width of the rim to which the tire is fitted: larger on a wider rim,
smaller on a narrow rim. The number on the side of tire indicates the width
measured with the tire fitted to the recommended rim width. "65" represents the
aspect ratio. This is the ratio of height to width. This tire's height is 65%
of its width. "R" stands for how the plies are constructed in the tire
carcass.
"R" means radial.
"B" in place of the
"R" means the tire is belted bias construction. "D" in place of the "R" means
diagonal bias construction.
"15" is the rim diameter, which is
the diameter of the wheel in inches.
"89" indicates the load
index.
Auto Pro To Call Brake Service Maximizes Brake Performance and
Safety.
Your vehicle's brake system uses a master cylinder, calipers
and or wheel cylinders and a net-work of hoses and steel lines to hold the
system's life blood -- brake fluid -- under pressure, it is this fluid pressure
that makes modern braking systems so reliable and safe .
When you step
on the brake pedal, the master cylinder transmits the force from your foot
pressure to the brake fluid in the hoses and lines. In turn, the pressurized
brake fluid pushes the wheel cylinders on drum brakes or calipers on disc
brakes. This movement of fluid causes the internal parts of the wheel cylinder
or caliper to move outward, pushing the brake shoes or disc pads against the
brake rotor or drum . The contact between these parts causes friction (heat)
which brings your car to a controlled stop.
To make sure your system
stays reliable, it's crucial that you have your vehicle's brakes inspect-ed
periodically. And, it is equally important to make sure it is a complete
inspection, performed by a trained technician. Unfortunately, wear on brake
shoes and pads is the only wear that's easily visible, so the rest of the brake
system's components can be overlooked or ignored until it is too late.
A wheel alignment consists of adjusting the wheels to
maximize tread life and ensure that your vehicle tracks straight. Proper
alignment is necessary for even tread wear and precise steering. Many vehicles
today are equipped with rear suspensions that can be adjusted for alignment.
Wheel alignments and related components should be checked every 10,000 miles or
once a year. .
What is it? Essentially, alignment refers to the way
your car's wheels are positioned. Ideally, your wheels should be parallel and
facing forward. How does it work? When your wheels are properly aligned, you'll
get better gas mileage; your tires will last longer; steering will be easier;
your ride will be smoother; and, most importantly, the drive will be safer. How
could it go wrong? Everything from age to components wearing out to a bump in
the road can cause your wheels to shift out of alignment. This could result in
one of three different problems:
Camber : The wheels are tilted, either inward or outward. This
will create pulling and tire wear.
Toe A change in the distance between the
front and back of the front or rear tires. This will wear on the tires,
too.
Caster:
A backward or forward tilt at the top of the wheel's spindle support arm. This
will cause either loose or difficult steering. If any of these problems
develop, they will begin to take their toll on your car's tires and
performance, as well as steering manageability.
Toe: A
change in the distance between the front and back of the front or rear
tires.
This will wear on the tires, too.
How do you recognize a
problem?
Several ways: is your steering wheel straight when you are driving?
Does your car pull to one side? Does your steering wheel vibrate? Do you notice
uneven tire wear? Does your steering feel loose, or is it difficult to control?
If you recognize any of these symptoms, bring your car in for a free
inspection.
Shock absorbers and struts are designed to keep the wheels
in contact with the road, improving cornering and braking. Though original
equipment shocks have improved in recent years, many are ready for replacement
in as few as 30,000 miles. The lifespan of a strut is about double that of a
shock. Most people do not notice the gradual deterioration in ride quality and
many shocks and struts are not replaced as often as they should be. Shocks and
struts should be checked every 12,000 miles or when any of these symptoms are
noticed: bouncy or uncomfortable ride excessive body sway when cornering fluid
leaks from the shock or strut physical damage to the shock or strut nose dive
when braking uneven tire wear tail squat when accelerating.
We are now carrying Interstate Batteries.
When Interstate Batteries began in Dallas, Texas in November of
1952, our outstanding level of service and quality product made us unique.
Today Interstate's excellent product and outstanding level of service remains
our edge.
Whether you buy a used car from a dealer or an individual,
follow these tips to learn as much as you can about the vehicle.
· Examine the car
yourself using an inspection checklist. You can find a checklist in many of the
magazine articles, books and Internet sites that deal with buying a used
car.
· Test drive the car under
varied road conditions—on hills, highways, and in stop-and-go
traffic.
· Ask for the car’s
maintenance record. If the owner doesn’t have copies, contact the
dealership or repair shop where most of the work was done. They may share their
files with you.
· Talk to the
previous owner, especially if the present owner is unfamiliar with the
car’s history.
· Have the
car inspected by a mechanic you hire. It’s best to have any used car
inspected by an independent mechanic before you buy it. For about $100 or less,
you’ll get a general indication of the mechanical condition of the
vehicle. An inspection is a good idea even if the car has been "certified" and
inspected by the dealer and is being sold with a warranty or service contract.
A mechanical inspection is different from a safety inspection. Safety
inspections usually focus on conditions that make a car unsafe to drive. They
are not designed to determine the overall reliability or mechanical condition
of a vehicle.
· There are no
standard operating procedures for pre-purchase inspections. Ask what the
inspection includes, how long it takes, and the price.Once the vehicle has been
inspected, ask the mechanic for a written report with a cost estimate for all
necessary repairs. Be sure the report includes the vehicle’s make, model
and VIN. Make sure you understand every item. If you decide to make a purchase
offer to the dealer after considering the inspection’s results, you can
use the estimated repair costs to negotiate the price of the vehicle.
